day 17 – Zeballos to Friendly Cove (Lo49°35.7N’L126°36.8’W)

Last night we fell asleep to the sound of sea ice being sucked through giant hoses and dropped into the hulls of fishing boats, and the gentle hum of the sardine plant’s giant freezers. It was a bit of culture shock for us, after being surrounded by only the sounds of nature for the last few weeks. But it was kind of nice to feel like we were going out for breakfast, heading up to Arrrmin & Julie’s house for eggs & scallops. I have a new favourite part of Zeballos – their backyard, where we met a sleepy black bear this morning who didn’t seem to faze their cat at all. After finding that elusive north island internet connection, stocking up on groceries, beer, diesel, water, propane, and gasoline, we bid our “fare-ye-wells!” to part of our crew (“and long may your big jib draw!” - your fishing skills, cooking skills, and “Rations!” reminders will be missed!), un-tied and set off into windy waters. And then there were 3. A few hours down the comparatively narrow and increasingly foggy Zeballos Inlet, Necate Channel, Tahsis Inlet, and Kendrick Inlet until the waters opened up again into Cook Channel. As in, Captain Cook Channel – he was first here in 1778 on his search for the Northwest Passage. The fog had pretty much enveloped us by the time we finally arrived at the opening of Nootka Sound, where we tucked into Friendly Cove at Yuquot on Nootka Island. This is the spot where Adam and John Paul first met and connected – a high school canoeing trip brought them here in 1987. I can assure you that it was no small feat for them to cross the 7.5 nautical miles from Three Cove Bay on Vancouver Island to Friendly Cove on Nootka Island in canoes – impressive for the dozen or so students and their teachers who knew they could do it. And here the boys were, 23 years later, arriving in the same place, but in a 40-foot aluminum sailing catamaran. It was a nice moment, and I was happy to be a part of it. As it was already getting close to sunset, and since we knew there would be a small charge to visit the historic piece of land, we opted to hang out and explore on foot in the morning.