Day 10 - Lagoon Cove to Port McNeill

A cool and cloudy morning, we sure have been enjoying the new diesel heater for the last few days. Cap’n Adam figured out how to program it to come on at 6:00 am, so the cabin is nice and toasty when we get out of bed. A luxury for certain, but it will also extend our boating season into the autumn (and maybe even winter?) months.

We left our isolation at Lagoon Cove and headed west along Baronet Passage, between West Cracroft and Harbledown Islands. Our intended destination was Hanson Island, where we knew there were some potentially good anchorages to check out.

We got to our first spot, the Sprout Islets, to discover we had no internet reception. This would not do, so we continued along until we got to Double Bay, hitting small pockets of weak connection along the way. But, absolutely no reception in that bay either. We also didn’t have our cell phones working, and since we have a new crew arriving tomorrow who we have not been in contact with for a few weeks, onward we continued. Our next stop was the Plumper Islands, and for a brief moment we had great connection, but that seemed to disintegrate as soon as we threw the anchor down. Frustrated, we decided to make lunch and then decide what to do.

This was a day that we needed to be on the grid. So, up came the anchor and we headed west to a spot we spent a night last year, Cormorant Channel Marine Park, where we were pretty sure there was good connection. Again, no luck, and with increasing annoyance (and, after Cap’n Adam unclogged our starboard side salt water engine coolant) we decided to head all the way to Port McNeill, a decent sized town guaranteed to have Telus reception. This is also where we are meeting our new crew anyways, so we would just be getting there a little sooner than planned.

We knew something must be wrong when we were tied up to the Municiple Marina, but there was still no internet reception. Thinking our internet stick must have some issues (oh Goddess, what are we going to DO with no internet for the next 4 weeks?!), we headed to the gas dock for the password to their wi-fi. That’s when we found out that the Telus system was completely down for the entire area. Content that it was not just us off the grid, we headed to the pub for burger and a brew. Followed that up with hot onshore-showers, and we’re happy sailors again. Yarrrr – and we’re back online, maties!!

Day 9 - Forward Bay (coastal mainland) to Lagoon Cove (Cracroft Island)

Up at the crack of dawn, we were kind of surprised to see we were one of the last boats remaining in the bay. I guess everyone had the same idea we did – head into Johnstone Strait first thing. Our “friend” who anchored a wee bit too close to us was also gone. We wouldn’t have to blow our air horn at him to “Wake Up!” and move his freaking boat so we could leave. Too bad, that actually would have been kind of fun.

The air had definitely changed overnight. The cool breeze had turned quite frigid, and thick clouds hinted that we may not see the sun today at all. Up came the anchor and off we went to see what Johnstone Strait had in store for us.

Cap’n Adam was at the helm again, through some swirly waters of Sunderland Channel north of Hardwicke Island. And into Johnstone Strait we plunged. In addition to strong currents and strong winds, this passage is also a busy shipping lane. Freighters and cruise ships pass through here regularly; it is most prudent take heed. Our plan was to tuck into Port Neville if things got too rough, which was about half way through our estimated 4 hour trip. Although the winds were cold and strong (we even donned everybody’s favourite – the survival suits!!), we were travelling with an ebb tide, and the waters were quite flat. Better to be too cautious than not cautious enough.

We cruised right by Port Neville, exited Johnstone Strait and headed counter-clockwise around East Cracroft Island. Through Havannah Channel and Chatham Channel we saw a pod of about 15 porpoises splashing and swimming and having a grand old time (it seemed to us). Through “The Blow Hole” between Minstrel Island and East Cracroft, we were now at Lagoon Cove, a protected little spot with a private marina. It was early afternoon and the sky was now blue again, the sun reminding us of his strength. Not wanting to spend money on moorage, we found a spot in a secluded bay to throw the anchor down, then dingied to the marina to check it all out. The harbinger Bill was most friendly, inviting us to explore the walking trails and facilities at our leisure.

We are now at the very edge of our destination, the Broughton Archipelago. Tomorrow we will enter it proper, and begin our 3 week exploration of this special corner of British Columbia.

day 5 – Cordero Channel to Turnour Island (Lo50°35.8’L126°29.8’)

A late pancake breakfast and a 10:30 anchor raise. The skies were cloudy, and the wind was cold today, a different flavour of weather for the Captain and crew. We travelled north of West Thurlow Island and into Chancellor Channel, where the Captain was steely-eyed enough to spot a small black bear onshore at the mouth of a river. From there we were briefly visited by dolphins in Wellbore Channel and Sunderland Channel, north of Hardwicke Island. We were forced to make a brief foray into Johnston Strait, a major shipping lane with potential for high waves. Our 12 nautical miles or so in the strait were relatively calm and solitary, but we did lose a Jolly Roger towel to the winds and the waves. Arrrr! Heading north as soon as possible, we entered Havannah Channel between East Cracroft Island and the mainland, then Chatham Channel, then through “the blowhole” south of Minstrel Island. The sun was turning a deeper shade of red as we coursed through Clio Channel, and we anchored in a bay on the Karlukees Reserve on Turnour Island. The broken glass and shell beach which surrounds us holds a marine ghost-town of sorts, an abandoned house and barn, sheds, and dock pilings. A special, almost sacred spot to spend the night.